So you are planning a trip to Estes Park in the winter and you got one big question on your mind. Can you ski in Estes Park?

The short answer is no but also yes.

It is kinda complicated. If you are looking for a big fancy ski resort with high speed chairlifts and heated gondolas right in the town of Estes Park then you are gonna be dissapointed. There is no lift serviced skiing directly in Estes Park anymore. But if you are willing to work for your turns or drive a little bit then there is actually a ton of skiing to be had.

This place used to have its own ski resort right inside the national park believe it or not. It was called Hidden Valley and locals still talk about it all the time. Now its a ghost resort that has turned into a backcountry playground. And if you just want a normal ski day Eldora is not to far away.

I am gonna break down everything you need to know about skiing in and around Estes Park so you can figure out if you should bring your skis or just stick to the snowshoes.

The Ghost Resort of Hidden Valley

You cant talk about skiing in Estes without talking about Hidden Valley. This spot is legendary around here.

Back in the day from like 1955 to 1991 there was a fully operating ski resort right inside Rocky Mountain National Park. It was located just off Trail Ridge Road. They had lifts and a lodge and everything. It was where all the local kids learned to ski and it had some pretty gnarly terrain to.

But the National Park Service eventually decided that running a commercial ski resort inside a national park was maybe not the best idea for the environment or the vibe they were going for. So they shut it down in 1991. They took out the chairlifts and the T-bars and let nature take over again.

But here is the cool part. They did not close the area to people.

Today Hidden Valley is a sledding hill and a backcountry ski spot. The runs are still there cut into the trees but there is no lift to get you to the top. You have to earn your turns. This means you need backcountry gear like skins to walk up the hill or you have to hike it with your skis on your pack.

It has a really unique feel. It is quiet and wild. You are skiing on runs that were cut decades ago but now they are unmaintained and natural. It is neobrutalism in nature if that makes sense. Just raw and real.

If you go there on a weekend you will see families sledding at the bottom on the bunny hill which is the only place sledding is alowed in the park. But look up the mountain and you will see skiers skinning up the old lift lines to get some fresh powder.

What Its Like to Ski Hidden Valley Now

If you have never backcountry skied before Hidden Valley is actually a decent place to start but you still need to be careful.

The bottom area is gentle and wide open. This is where the sledding happens but you can also ski around there if you just want to mess around.

If you want the real skiing you have to head up. The main route follows the old Lower T-Bar lift line. It is a steady climb and it will get your heart rate up for sure. The snow is not groomed so it can be deep powder or it can be windblown crud depending on the day.

Once you get up higher the terrain gets steeper. The old upper runs like the ones off the drift are no joke. They can slide so you have to know what you are doing with avalanche safety.

There is a warming hut at the bottom with restrooms which is a luxury you usually dont get in the backcountry. Its nice to have a place to put your boots on that isnt a freezing cold parking lot.

Just remember there is no ski patrol. If you get hurt up there you are on your own until search and rescue can get to you which takes time. So ski within your limits and dont do anything stupid.

Backcountry Skiing in Rocky Mountain National Park

If you are a serious skier and you have all the gear and the knowledge then RMNP is basically paradise. It is not just Hidden Valley. The whole park is full of lines if you know where to look.

But I gotta stress this because it is super important. This is real backcountry. There is no avalanche control. The mountains here are big and dangerous if you dont respect them. You need a beacon shovel and probe and you need to know how to use them. Taking an avalanche safety class is a must.

If you are good on safety here are some of the spots people hit.

The Banana Bowls

This is a popular spot for people who want high alpine terrain without getting into super crazy steep stuff. It is on the east face of Flattop Mountain.

The approach is long though. You have to skin all the way up from Bear Lake usually. It takes a while and the wind can be brutal up there above treeline. But the bowl itself is wide and holds snow well. On a sunny spring day it is hard to beat the views from up there.

Dragon’s Tail Couloir

This one is for the experts. You have probably seen pictures of it. It is that gnarly steep line that drops right down to Emerald Lake.

It is steep and narrow and scary. If you fall you are gonna have a bad time. People ski it but usually in the spring when the snowpack is more stable. In the middle of winter the avalanche danger is often to high to risk it.

If you manage to ski it though you are a legend. It is one of the classic tick list lines in the park. Just watching people ski it from the frozen lake below is pretty entertaining.

Bear Lake and Sprague Lake

If you are more into cross country skiing or just light touring then Bear Lake and Sprague Lake are the spots.

You can ski right across the frozen lakes which is pretty cool. The trails around them are popular so they get packed down quick. You dont need big fat powder skis for this. Skinny cross country skis work great.

It is super peaceful to glide through the trees with the snow falling. Way better than waiting in a lift line at a mega resort if you ask me.

The Resort Option: Eldora Mountain

Okay I know not everyone wants to hike up a mountain to ski down it. Sometimes you just want to ride a lift and crush some groomers.

If that is you then your best bet is Eldora.

It is not in Estes Park but it is the closest ski resort. It takes about an hour and fifteen minutes to drive there from Estes depending on the roads. You take the Peak to Peak Highway which is a super scenic drive anyway so the time goes by fast.

Eldora is awesome because it is not like the giant resorts on I-70. It is smaller and has a more local vibe. You dont get stuck in that nightmare traffic on the interstate.

They have everything you need. Rental shop ski school and a cafeteria. The terrain is actually really good to. They have some steep stuff on the backside and nice easy cruisers on the front.

It can get windy there though. Like really windy. Locals call it “Windora” for a reason. So make sure you bring a face mask and good goggles.

If you have an Ikon pass Eldora is on it which is sweet. If not the day tickets are usually cheaper than places like Vail or Breckenridge.

It is a great day trip from Estes. You can wake up in Estes drive to Eldora ski until your legs are tired and be back in Estes for dinner and beers.

Other Nearby Resorts

If Eldora is not your thing or you want a bigger mountain you have a few other options but they are further away.

Winter Park is probably the next best choice. It is a world class resort with massive terrain. The drive is longer though. You are looking at probably 2 hours maybe more if the weather is bad. You have to drive over Berthoud Pass which can be sketchy in a snowstorm.

But if you make the trek Winter Park is amazing. The Mary Jane side has the best bumps in Colorado if you like mogul skiing.

Steamboat is way to far for a day trip. Same with the Summit County resorts like Breck and Keystone. You could do it but you would spend half your day in the car. It is better to just stick to Eldora or enjoy the backcountry if you are staying in Estes.

Where to Get Gear

Since there is no skiing right in town you might be wondering about rentals.

The Estes Park Mountain Shop is the place to go. It is that huge store on the big hill as you come into town from the highway. They rent everything.

You can get alpine touring gear for the backcountry. They have skis boots and skins. They also rent cross country skis and snowshoes.

If you are heading to Eldora you can rent your gear there at the mountain but it is usually cheaper to rent in Estes before you go. Plus you dont have to wait in the rental line at the resort which is always a disaster.

They also have a ton of local knowledge. The guys working in the basement rental shop usually ski Hidden Valley or the park before work so they can tell you what the conditions are like. Dont be afraid to ask them where the good snow is.

Après Ski in Estes Park

After a day of skiing whether you hiked for it at Hidden Valley or drove to Eldora you are gonna want a drink and some food.

Estes Park has some solid options for that post ski vibe.

The Barrel

This place is technically a beer garden but they have indoor seating to. They have a huge list of craft beers. It is a great place to sit and talk about your day. It feels very social and chill.

The Rock Inn Mountain Tavern

If you want that rustic cabin feel this is the spot. It is built out of logs and usually has a wood fire going. They have live music a lot of the time which adds to the atmosphere. The food is hardy comfort food which is exactly what you need after burning a million calories in the cold.

Rock Cut Brewing

This is a local favorite. It is right near the river and has a cool patio if it is sunny or a cozy taproom if it is not. Their beer is really good. It is the kind of place where you will see people still wearing their ski pants.

Bird and Jim

If you want something a little nicer check out Bird and Jim. The food is farm to table style and really tasty. It is a bit more upscale but still mountain casual. You can show up in flannel and fit right in.

Essential Tips for your Estes Ski Trip

If you are gonna try to make a ski trip out of your visit to Estes here are a few things to keep in mind.

• Wind is the enemy: The wind in Estes Park and RMNP is legendary. It can shred the snow and make it feel fifty below zero. Always check the wind forecast. If it is blowing 60 mph maybe go snowshoeing in the trees instead of trying to go high.
• The roads get slick: Driving in the mountains in winter is no joke. You need good tires. AWD or 4WD is highly recommended. The road to Eldora can be an ice rink.
• Altitude is real: Estes is at 7500 feet and the skiing is way higher. Drink tons of water. If you feel sick take it easy. The beer hits you harder up here to so watch out for that.
• Start early: In the winter the sun goes behind the mountains early. It gets dark and cold fast in the afternoon. Try to get your skiing done in the morning.
• Respect the park: If you are skiing in RMNP remember you are in a national park. Dont trash the place. Stay on the trails if you are cross country skiing. And dont harass the wildlife. The elk are big and they will mess you up if you get to close.

Is It Worth It?

So is it worth bringing your skis to Estes Park?

I think so.

If you are a resort skier who needs groomed runs and chairlifts then just plan on driving to Eldora for a day. It is a fun mountain and the drive is beautiful.

But if you are adventurous and want to try something different then Hidden Valley is special. There is something really cool about earning your turns in a quiet national park. It feels like skiing used to be before it got all corporate and expensive.

Just be realistic about your skills. Dont go charging into the backcountry if you dont know what you are doing. Stick to the sledding hill area or take a class.

Skiing in Estes is not the easy convenient experience you get at Vail. It is a bit rougher around the edges. It takes a bit more effort. But that is kinda what makes it fun. It is an imperfect experience but a memorable one.

So yeah pack the skis. Even if you just end up cross country skiing around a frozen lake it is a winter experience you wont forget.

Quick Comparison Table

Here is a quick breakdown of your options so you can see them side by side.

A Few More Thoughts on the Vibe

I want to touch on the vibe one more time because I think it matters.

Estes in the winter is quiet. In the summer it is a zoo with tourists everywhere. But in January or February it is sleepy in a good way.

You can walk down Elkhorn Avenue without bumping into a thousand people. The locals are more relaxed. It feels like a real mountain town again.

Skiing here fits that vibe. It is not about the flashy gear or the expensive lift tickets. It is about being outside in the cold air and enjoying the mountains.

Whether you are skinning up a ghost resort or just having a beer by the fire after a day at Eldora it is a good way to spend the winter.

So dont let the lack of a chairlift scare you off. There is plenty of snow to be found if you look for it. Just remember to keep your tips up and watch out for the trees.

And seriously get the nachos at the Rock Inn. You will thank me later.

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